Yohji Yamamoto - Biography
Fashion designer, born in Tokyo, Japan. He studied at Pawat Kaio University, then helped his mother with her dress shop. He started his own company in 1972, producing his first collection in Tokyo in 1976. After some time in Paris, he opened a new headquarters in London in 1987. He designs loose, functional clothes for men and women, featuring a great deal of black, which conceal rather than emphasize the body.
Yohji Yamamoto was born in Yokohama, Japan in 1943. He studied law before turning to fashion, and cut his teeth making clothing for his dressmaker mother and her friends. He launched his own company in 1974 and showed his first collection in Tokyo. In 1981 he debuted in Paris, where he has studied on a fashion scholarship in the late 60s. The only Japanese fashion designer to have been awarded the French Chevalier de L'Ordre des Art et Lettres, Yamamoto is also the recipient of the American Fashion Award. He currently lives in Japan with long-time partner Rei Kawakubo, and relaxes by playing harmonica with a band called Suicide City.
He expresses his philosophy and avant-garde spirit in his clothing, frequently creating designs far removed from current trends. Basically, he makes a line characterized by oversized silhouettes; it typically features drapes (loose gathers and tatters) in glossy textures that naturally change with the figure's contours and movement. Often, a single color (particularly black) and a single shade are used. One could say that Youji Yamamoto tries to express himself through his clothing; customers who sympathize with those thoughts and spirit are charmed and become ardent fans. The charismatic designer's brand, which received high praise both domestically and abroad during the 1980s, side by side with the likes of Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Gar�ons and Issey Miyake's Issei Miyake, formed the 'DC brand boom'. (DC is short for Designers & Characters. It is now called Designers' Brands.) He currently serves as Takeshi Kitano's costume designer for the likes of Brother, Dolls and Zatoichi. He also has been credited as Placebo's provider with the Adidas line, noticeably during the Soulmates Never Die (Live in Paris 2003) Tour shows.
Yohji Yamamoto is the so-called collection line (and, indeed, the other lines form a part of it); it could be said to be the purest form of the designer's expression. Y's for living is a household goods brand, but it does not have any direct connection to either Yohji Yamamoto or the Yohji Yamamoto joint stock corporation.
Yohji Yamamoto: Talking to Myself:
"French electronic musician Jean-Michel Jarre once defined Yohji Yamamoto's style like this: "For me, a woman in Yohji is like a nymphomaniac nun. His clothes are at once sensual and very ritualistic." This about a man whose reputation marks him as a designer of clothes for earnest intellectuals. This about a man whose 1998 "wedding" show featured a bridal striptease which took models from inflated Victorian crinolines down to slim-line dresses and pants. This about a man who is one of the most revered and idiosyncratic of 20th century designers. In Talking to Myself, Yamamoto has created an illustrated notebook that recounts the phases of his life. A work in progress punctuated with multiple images, Talking to Myself is the only book in which Yamamoto has become personally involved, making it a veritable extension of his own private world. In it, he "talks to himself" and with philosopher and art/fashion critic Kiyokazu Washida about himself and the objects he creates, objects that meld, blend with, and are assimilated by the person they seek to enhance. Pages marked by Yamamoto's pen and brush with Japanese ideograms, striking sketches, and abstract compositions help decipher his desire to achieve anti-fashion through fashion itself. Yamamoto's world is one of black and white symbols, a world in which color makes only a fleeting appearance."